Lily Propagation

Bulbs – Natural Division

Given ordinary care, most lilies will divide regularly. Some Asiatic types may make two to four new bulbs in a year. Other types may take longer. When a lily is growing well in its location, leave it alone. When stems get shorter and more crowded, then is the time to carefully lift the clump with a fork and gently tug the bulbs apart. Bulbs can be replanted in another location; this is best done in the fall but early spring, before top growth starts, is okay.

Stem Bulblets

Another method of natural propagation is by stem bulblets. When you lift lilies for dividing, you may find small bulblets in the clump which are often clustered along the underground part of the stem. These small bulblets may be planted in a separate nursery bed. It may take a year or more for them to flower but if you are patient, it’s a good way to increase your collection.

Bulbils

Sometimes a lily will have little black beads on the stems in the axils of their leaves. These are stem bulbils. This is notable on tiger lilies but also in other varieties. If gathered when fat and ripe, these bulbils can be planted in a furrow, like planting peas. In a year or two, they will grow into bulbs.

Scaling

A lily is comprised of scales attached to a basal plate where the bulb roots are formed. To scale a bulb, the overlapping scales are broken off at the base of the bulb, but not in the middle. Take the first and possibly second row of scales and plant the remainder of the bulb in the garden. Soak scales in a 10% alcohol solution and let soak for about 20 minutes. Place scales in slightly damp vermiculite or peat moss and put into a zip lock bag, being sure to label the bag. Place the bag of scales in the dark on a shelf at room temperature for three months. Tiny bulbs will start to form on the scales. Next, place the scales in the refrigerator for three months so that they go through a dormant cycle. After that time, the scales can be planted outside if it is warm or inside under fluorescent lighting. Space them one inch apart in pots and plant ½ inch deep. If planted indoors, plant them outside when weather warms. Place mulch around the bulb to protect from too much sun and to keep moist.

Seeds

It is best for beginners to start with the epigeal or “quick type” seeds. They can be planted directly in prepared ground or in a cold frame; quicker results are obtained with fluorescent light cultivation. Many types of containers may be used but four to six inches deep is best and most people use plastic pots. Holes for drainage are a must. Pro-mix, which is light and fluffy, may be used as the soil. Some gardeners add a thin layer of milled sphagnum moss for the seeds to lie on. Sprinkle sphagnum with a fine mist. Let the container sit in a tray of water for several hours. Be sure to label your pots. Cover the container with plastic wrap and enclose in a polyethylene bag and store in a warm place (not in direct sunlight). Seedlings should start to appear in as early as 14 days. When sprouted, remove the bag and place containers in good light. A light liquid fertilizer may be added after seedlings emerge. When setting outdoors, be sure to harden off plants but placing them outdoors in a sheltered, shady area for a week or two before putting them into the garden.